Showing posts with label rice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rice. Show all posts

14 July 2026

Food Lab: Paella Pan

"Paella PAN? That's not only not a dish or an ingredient, it's a single tasker! I thought FL was constitutionally against single taskers!"

Weeeelllll, we largely are. But sometimes they are the only way to get the desired result.

Chef Spouse and I are paella consumers but not paella creators. Mad Kitchen Scientist, on the other hand, has a Green Egg. Which is an excellent tool for making paella, assuming you have the correct pan.

He's tried a variety of different paella formulations in a variety of different pans on both the Egg and the stovetop, and while the paella has always been tasty, he's never managed to achieve the perfect socarrat.

Was a paella pan the answer?

Um, yes.

Since we were going for Very Traditional paella, Chef Spouse and I were tasked with sourcing the rabbit from one of our local poultry vendors.

Mad Kitchen Scientist made a bomb-ass sofrito, following Jose Andres's method, and procured the bomba rice, cured chorizo, piquillo peppers, and some lovely mushrooms.

The actual making of the paella was relatively simple.

Break down the rabbit.


How many Elmer Fudd jokes were there?
Infinity

Brown the rabbit, then partially cook it stovetop (which also provided some rabbit stock, which definitely did not go to waste).


Brown the mushrooms, peppers, rabbit "bits," and chorizo, and assemble the rice, stock, sofrito, and saffron.


Fire up the Egg, heat up the pan, toast the rice in olive oil, and then add all the ingredients (other than the stock and big rabbit pieces).


Add the stock and the rabbit and cook ~20 minutes


¡Come!


Check out that socarrat, y'all!

For our next trick? What ELSE can you do with a paella pan? Yes, we're taking suggestions. 

15 November 2011

Food Lab 12: Rice

Chef Spouse has a love/hate relationship with rice. Well, since he got serious about cooking, it's actually mostly been a hate/hate relationship. It always seems to come out sticky. Like clumpy sticky.

Ouch.

So we decided, once and for all, to figure out how to get it right.

Before you even start with me, yes, I know: "rice cooker." But Chef Spouse is of the "no single taskers!" school of though, so no rice cooker. Also, even though when we renovated the kitchen, we got a LOT more cabinet space, it's not infinite. And we don't really make rice often enough to make it worthwhile to devote the space to that as opposed to, say, a food mill.



Despite what you might think from the lovely picture above, we stuck with basmati rice the entire time for quality control.

The basic variables are:

Rinsed versus unrinsed
Soaked versus unsoaked
Boiled versus steamed versus baked

The first test we did was rinsed then soaked versus unrinsed then soaked. By "rinse," I mean you rinse and swirl and drain until the water runs clean. Both were then drained and cooked in the traditional manner: bring rice and water (in a 1:1.5 ratio) to boil, then lower heat and simmer under water's pretty much gone (~8 minutes for pre-soaked white rice), then remove from heat, covered, and steam for ~10 minutes. Unsurprisingly, there wasn't much difference between rinsed versus unrinsed when you were then going to soak and drain.

For the second test, we rinsed them both, then tested the boiled in lots of water (like pasta would be) versus the traditional cooking method described above. The pasta style was softer and fluffier, while the traditional cooking method was more al dente. Strong preferences started to emerge.

For the third test, we did everything wrong - no rinsing, stirring constantly, no rest. That rice was not good, and didn't cook the whole way through. We used it later to make Persian rice (which is basically rice that's partially cooked, drained, and then finished by being poached in butter. Yeah, it was pretty damn good.)

For the fourth test, we did the Commander's Palace method - it's a parboil, at a 1:4 ratio, for ~12 minutes, then you drain it, bung in butter and bake it at 325 for ~5 minutes. It's good, for sure (BUTTER!), but would probably be best for a situation in which the oven's already on.

For the fifth test, we tried a risotto style method, where you saute your rice in fat first (BUTTER!), then do the traditional 1:1.5 boil/simmer/steam method. This one also came out a true al dente, with a nice chewy center.

Of course, we also ran a test with the Mad Kitchen Scientist's rice cooker.  It came out quite light and fluffy - similar to the pasta-style rice.

So what did we learn?

Rinsing is critical. No matter what method you use, you MUST rinse your rice first.

Resting/steaming at the end to finish the cooking is also critical. Well, at least when you do the boil/simmer/steam method of cooking.

Soaking is good, if you remember/have time for it. If you rinse your rice and put it on to soak as you start your dinner prep, you should be golden, particularly since pre-soaked rice will cook more quickly.

Pasta-style is great if you need to make a LOT of rice, because it's more forgiving on technique and time, and you don't have to worry about the bottom grains burning to the pot before the top grains are cooked through.

And yes, a rice cooker is also great, if you have space for one and aren't ethically opposed to single-taskers.

So of course, with all that leftover rice, we made rice pudding.

Actually, the funny part is, only one of the recipes we chose used already-cooked rice. So we cooked yet more rice for two of the three rice puddings we made. Food Lab, thy name is excess.

So we did a custard style that started with cooking rice in milk on the stovetop and then ended with the custard topping dumped on top going into the oven. That resulted in a rice pudding bottom with a flan-like top. Good. Not amazing. Would be better as rice pudding and flan, two separate desserts.

We also used leftover rice to make an entirely stovetop version. That was quite good, very easy, and what is going to happen to all my leftover takeout Chinese rice from now on.

And then there was the version that started with uncooked arborio rice and went straight into the oven. A few caveats: take the advice of the commenters and stir it every 15 minutes to prevent a skin from forming in the first place. It will take about an extra 15 minutes to cook in the ramekins (probably longer if you do it all in one container). Add vanilla when you add the heavy cream at the end.



All that said: IT WAS F-ING AMAZING.

O.M.G.

Best rice pudding ever.

EVER.

Not kidding.